I finally found the time to pull off the carburetor. I had to remove most of
the rear bodywork, as well as the underseat tray, to get at the carburetor.
It was pretty simple to remove, once it was exposed. I didn't have a manual
or exploded diagram for the carb, so I took lots of pictures as I disassembled
it, so I could be sure to get it back together properly.
|
It looks so empty there, without the carburetor. That rubber circle is
where the carb fits in. There's a solid metal intake manifold under there
somewhere.
|
Here's the carb with the vacuum and fuel lines removed. It looks pretty
dirty. I took pictures of both sides to help in getting all of the
fasteners back in the right place.
|
I was careful separating the bowl from the carb body, and was able to get the
rubber gasket out without damage. This was the only gasket in the entire
carb. You can see the float now that the bowl is off.
|
This float works like the float in every other carb over made. We are
looking up at the bottom of the carb in these pictures. The float hangs down
into the bowl. When the fuel level in the bowl is low, the float sinks low
enough so that
the check valve pulls away from its seat, and fuel flows into the bowl.
As the fuel flows into the bowl, the float rises, and eventually lifts the
check valve up so it seals against the seat. This cuts off the fuel flow.
The carburetor continues to use fuel, until the fuel level drops low enough
to unseat the check valve, and the process repeats. This ensures that the
fuel level in the bowl is always at the right level. Until you flip the
scooter upside down, and the fuel drains out of the bowl onto your leg, and
ignites.
|
There appear to be jets for the main and idle circuits, as well as an
adjustment screw of some sort.
|
There is a drain plug in the base of the bowl. This would be useful if you
were going to store the scooter for an extended period of time. By
removing the screw you could drain all the gas from the carburetor, so
hopefully it would not gum everything up. If the previous owner had done that,
I would not be doing this.
|
I soaked the carb in carb cleaner for a couple hours. When it came out it
was nice and shiny. I wiped it down and blew out all the passages, then
reassembled everything on a nice clean shop rag.
|
The barb for the fuel line had come free during disassembly, so I used blue
loctite to secure it in place. I need to remember to check that once the
scooter is running. That would be bad to have the fuel line come loose.
|
The carb went right back in place. Now there are two shiny things on the
scooter.
|
I finally found the time to pull off the carburetor. I had to remove most of
the rear bodywork, as well as the underseat tray, to get at the carburetor.
It was pretty simple to remove, once it was exposed. I didn't have a manual
or exploded diagram for the carb, so I took lots of pictures as I disassembled
it, so I could be sure to get it back together properly.
It looks so empty there, without the carburetor. That rubber circle is
where the carb fits in. There's a solid metal intake manifold under there
somewhere.
Here's the carb with the vacuum and fuel lines removed. It looks pretty
dirty. I took pictures of both sides to help in getting all of the
fasteners back in the right place.
I was careful separating the bowl from the carb body, and was able to get the
rubber gasket out without damage. This was the only gasket in the entire
carb. You can see the float now that the bowl is off.
This float works like the float in every other carb over made. We are
looking up at the bottom of the carb in these pictures. The float hangs down
into the bowl. When the fuel level in the bowl is low, the float sinks low
enough so that
the check valve pulls away from its seat, and fuel flows into the bowl.
As the fuel flows into the bowl, the float rises, and eventually lifts the
check valve up so it seals against the seat. This cuts off the fuel flow.
The carburetor continues to use fuel, until the fuel level drops low enough
to unseat the check valve, and the process repeats. This ensures that the
fuel level in the bowl is always at the right level. Until you flip the
scooter upside down, and the fuel drains out of the bowl onto your leg, and
ignites.
There appear to be jets for the main and idle circuits, as well as an
adjustment screw of some sort.
There is a drain plug in the base of the bowl. This would be useful if you
were going to store the scooter for an extended period of time. By
removing the screw you could drain all the gas from the carburetor, so
hopefully it would not gum everything up. If the previous owner had done that,
I would not be doing this.
I soaked the carb in carb cleaner for a couple hours. When it came out it
was nice and shiny. I wiped it down and blew out all the passages, then
reassembled everything on a nice clean shop rag.
The barb for the fuel line had come free during disassembly, so I used blue
loctite to secure it in place. I need to remember to check that once the
scooter is running. That would be bad to have the fuel line come loose.
The carb went right back in place. Now there are two shiny things on the
scooter.